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Vedic texts through the centuries have made references to a 'hiranya vastra' or golden cloth, worn by the Gods, referring to the intricate Banarasi sari. In the 2nd century BC, the sage, Patanjali spoke of a 'Kasika vastra' or 'cloth from Kashi' that was considered far superior to the cloth from Mathura. The history of Banarasi is as ancient as the documented history itself, and its future undoubtedly relies on how effectively we raise awareness about it.
A proud emblem of India's craft and cultural legacy, the Banarasi sari while extremely intricate, also turns out to be a sturdy option passed down as an heirloom. For instance, Deepika Padukone wore a red and gold Banarasi sari from Sabyasachi, gifted by her mother-in-law, to celebrate her first wedding anniversary at the Tirupati temple. What's crucial to the preservation of the textile is understanding how to identify an authentic Banarasi, considering the ample counterfeits available in the market. We spoke to several industry experts who guided us on how exactly to identify a genuine weave.
Check the motifs
The age-old Banarasi flourished under the Mughal era starting from the 14th century—and so the weave as we know it today features Persian motifs like florals, trellises, lattices and paisleys. Palak Shah, CEO, Ekaya Banaras points out that many motifs cannot be made on the handloom: “Patterns that are too intricate or too large are a giveaway. Similarly, if there are many repeats in a design, it is mostly work that has been produced on a powerloom, although sadly it’s getting tougher to tell them apart.”
Ask for a GI tag
This would probably be the most foolproof way to ensure that you’re buying a genuine product. "The GI or Geographical Indication tag is the most trusted to way to identify a Banarasi as it traces where the sari was woven. Only a sari that was woven in Varanasi (formerly Banaras) can be referred to as a ‘Banarasi’," says Aparna Thyagarajan, co-founder, of Shobitam. Authentic sellers also provide certification, so ensure you ask for it.
Examine the fabric
Keeping a few points in mind regarding the fabric will make your shopping process easier. First up, a sari that’s made on handloom will have floats on the reverse side as opposed to a smooth finish that’s achieved by machine-made fabric. Secondly, as Sooraj Bhat, CEO, Ethnic Business, ABFRL mentions, the ‘buti’ motif saris are made by inserting extra weft of zari in a ratio of two ground threads and one design threads.
“This gives the motif a slight ‘bulge’ indicating a genuine weave. The yarn should also be metallic yarn instead of lurex-wrapped thread.” The Banarasi has a subtle, yet timeless sheen; if the fabric you’re buying has a very prominent sheen, it’s most likely synthetic.
Look for the little ‘imperfections’
The beauty of a handwoven sari lies in those small ‘imperfections’ that make it one of a kind. “The difference between handloom and powerloom Banarasis are the perfect ‘imperfections’. A handwoven textile will almost always enjoy nuances of humane touch, which would be in the form of picks in the base fabric or even black markings along the selvedge of the textile,” shares Gaurika Rai, CEO, Warp ‘n Weft.
Shivam Kejriwal & Manav Patel, co-founders, House of Vardha also point out that the Kadwa
weave saris (in which each motif is woven separately), should not feature cut threads of zari on the reverse side and the threads too should be very fine.
Consider the price
Price is generally a great indicator of whether or not a Banarasi is authentic. “Anything that’s handmade takes time and comes at a cost. It takes man hours but gives you that touch and feel of pure quality,” says Shah. So if you’re getting a great ‘deal’ online, it’s probably not authentic.The heritage, quality and craftsmanship of a Banarasi is unmatched—and as patrons, we should be willing to pay a fair price to ensure that we preserve it.
Styling, according to the stars
Celebrities have long displayed a fondness for Banarasi saris. Esha Gupta chose a striped Banarasi number from Shanti Banaras for her appearance at the International Film Festival of India in Goa, whereas Rashmika Mandanna showcased a distinctive olive green sari with a unique drape. Madhuri Dixit Nene opted for a polka dot handwoven Banarasi weave by Anita Dongre, while Karisma Kapoor went for a rani pink sari from the same designer.
Also read:
Here’s why every bridal trousseau needs a Benarasi sari
34 designer stores and online shops to buy Benarasi weaves from
Tilfi's Gulab Bari is a fresh take on Benarasi saris
All products are independently selected by our editors. If you buy something, we may earn an affiliate commission.
