Would a hispi cabbage by any other name taste so sweet? Not to the country’s hippest diners, it clearly wouldn’t. Whether drizzled with miso butter in east London, served with bacon and breadcrumbs in Manchester or floating in crab bisque in Cornwall, this cruciferous upstart has become the must-order at the country’s coolest restaurants. How else to explain why punters will part with serious money, anything up to £30 — yes £30 — for a slice of brassica.
We’re not talking side dish here, of course. It’s not chopped and boiled and served as bridesmaid to a nice piece of meat — delicious as that would be — but as the main event. It’s able to hold its own in a way that a plate
