North or South? Discovering the two shores of Lake Garda

Garda is the largest lake in Italy, and with sheltered coves, bustling harbours, rolling hills, Mediterranean climate, rich history and crystal-clear water, it is the ideal destination for relaxing as much as exploring. Most holidaymakers flock to the southern resorts of the south, but the northern region, with its towering mountains and cliffs, is equally charming. Here is how to explore this lake of contrasts.

Explore the north

The fjord-like lake dazzles and cosy harbours captivate in Lake Garda’s northern resorts 

Where mountains meet water, you’re always in for a treat, and nowhere is this truer than at the northern end of Lake Garda, where the Italian Alps tumble into the narrowing, fjord-like lake and the shoreline is a mix of ancient harbours and towering cliffs.

Attracting active types with mountain walks on Monte Baldo and watersports fans with breezy weather, the northern resorts of Lake Garda provide endless scope for adventure.

Hillside Malcesine, cobbled Limone, northernmost Riva and sporty Torbole are the main resorts, and while action may be top of the agenda for some, there’s also plenty of time for a gentle promenade, gelato and spritz. 

Top five experiences in the northern region

1 Spend the day exploring Malcesine

It’s all about the views in Malcesine but don’t start too high – instead, first climb the tower of its 13th-century castle, built on Roman foundations, to soak up views of the water peeking among the tiled rooftops before taking the rotating cable car to the summit of Monte Baldo at 1,760m for the full-blown lake landscape. To fully enjoy the panoramas, walk down from the summit instead of taking the cable car.

2 Passeggiata in fragrant Limone

The cobbled streets of Limone, a beautiful cliffside town on the north-western shore of Lake Garda, are perfect for a passeggiata – an early-evening stroll with socialising in mind. The scent from the surrounding lemon groves wafts over the narrow lanes and shuttered houses. Only accessible by road since 1932, Limone has maintained its authenticity. Arrive at the bustling waterfront by boat and the 21st century feels very distant – even more so if you seek out one of the secluded beaches to the north for a spot of swimming.

3 Get out on the water 

Thanks to Lake Garda’s location between the Alps and the Padana plain, it benefits from good winds and is breezier in the north than the south. The Pelèr, the northerly morning wind, rolls in from the north and creates great springboards for windsurfers and kiters; dying down by lunchtime, conditions become more suited to stand-up paddleboarders and kayakers. Whichever your mode, getting out on the water is a great way to discover coves and inlets you would never find from the road.

4 Visit a local market 

Lake Garda is known for its traditional Italian markets, selling not only fruit, vegetables and local meats and cheeses, but also leather goods, pottery, tapestry and clothing. Artisans congregate at these authentic stalls and, if you so wished, you could visit a different market every day of the week. The weekly market in Torbole is particularly atmospheric. It is held in the town’s small old port that dates back to the 15th century.

5 Take a boat trip from Riva to Limone or Malcesine

To really get a feel for Lake Garda, you must get out on the water, and one of the easiest yet most rewarding ways is to hop on one of the many boats plying the lake. If time is of the essence choose an efficient hydrofoil ferry but if at all possible instead opt for a pleasure boat or private hire and soak up the incredible scenery of the fjord-like northern end of the lake.

Where to stay

The northern end of Lake Garda is more mountainous than the south, so its towns and villages are perched among the peaks and valleys, and harbours are squeezed along the shore under towering cliffs.

Starting with Limone, on the western side of Lake Garda, its bustling waterfront and cobbled streets are set against a backdrop of dramatic rocks and lemon groves. Potter among the terracotta-tiled houses and catch beautiful views of Monte Baldo across the lake.

Moving clockwise on to Riva del Garda, at the head of the lake, this lively harbour town is crammed with colourful palazzo buildings and splashes of greenery. Dating back to Roman times – you can still see the old town walls – Riva is now home to a buzzing pavement café scene and chic boutiques.

Plenty of great walks start from Riva, notably the scenic but steep path up to the Chapel of St Barbara, or a more gentle stroll along the 3km lake-front promenade to the village of Torbole. Home to lots of sailors and windsurfers, Torbole enjoys enchanting views down the length of Lake Garda from its flower-filled waterfront.

Monte Baldo dominates the last of the northern towns of Lake Garda, Malcesine. One of the prettiest towns on the lake, it is a fantastic spot for active types, with plenty of walking and cycling routes snaking through it and around it. Home to the most romantic of Lake Garda’s four castles – linked to the Scaligeri, a ruling family in the 13th and 14th centuries – and some heavenly ice-cream parlours and food markets, Malcesine also lends itself well to lazy days spent soaking up the laidback lake-side atmosphere.

Explore the south

The waves gently lap the shore and the living is easy in Lake Garda’s southern resorts

The southern shores of Lake Garda offer rolling hills and open, undulating landscapes of vineyards and olive groves, which benefit from the region’s unusually mild and benevolent Mediterranean climate.

The gentle terrain may be less dramatic than that further north but it still enchants, and draws visitors who relish leisurely relaxation. Here travellers can take gentle walks, explore vineyards as part of a wine tour, amble through local food markets, and sup spritz under the shade of a waterfront parasol.

Beautiful Bardolino, Garda, Sirmione, Desenzano, Gardone Riviera, Torri del Benaco, Lazise and Peschiera are the main resorts and offer a mix of pebble beaches, charming harbours and former fortresses belonging to the lake’s Veronese and Venetian rulers.

Top five experiences in the southern region 

1 Visit the Scaligero Castle, Sirmione

Sirmione’s castle is one of four around Lake Garda dating from the 13th-century Scaligero era and is the best preserved. Built into the water at the narrowest point of Sirmione’s peninsula, its location lends it a magical appearance but also clearly shows what a defensive stronghold it was – the castle entrance is still the only way to enter the historic centre of Sirmione. Its two crenellated towers dominate the lake and the dock houses a Roman-era burial ground.

2 Wine tasting in Bardolino

The village of Bardolino, on Lake Garda’s eastern shore, lends its name to the centuries-old great red wine produced on its surrounding hills. Light and fruity, Bardolino can be served slightly chilled and is a perfect accompaniment to the Italian classics of pasta, risotto and simple grilled fish. The Bardolino wine route is 80km long, stretching from Bardolino at the water’s edge to the hills of Costermano before descending to Garda and Torri del Benaco and continuing up the lake. Pick one or two to visit, or drive the whole route.

3 Hire a boat 

To properly see Lake Garda, you must see the water from the water, and the best way to do this is to rent a boat. Offering a whole new perspective on the landscape, see stunning villas and hotels you would miss from the road, secluded, inviting coves, and many of the lakeside towns, all in one day. Being on the water means it is also easy to get up close to some of Lake Garda’s most famous landmarks, including Isola del Garda, the Scaligeri castles at Malcesine and Sirmione, and Mussolini’s neo-Gothic Villa Feltrinelli, before taking a dip, right in the middle.

4 Eat at Locanda San Vigilio

Welcoming travellers since the 1500s, San Vigilio sits on an enchanting promontory jutting into the lake at Garda. Diners can enjoy the breeze in the manor house’s internal courtyard, with tables so close to the water you can see the bottom of the lake. The menu is traditional Italian – the best fresh seasonal produce is sourced from local suppliers, and its olive oil is made from the trees in the grounds.

5 Take a walk 

The southern end of Lake Garda encourages leisurely strolls through its rolling hills and flatter terrain. For a gentle but stunning walk, head to the hills above the Gardone Riviera on the western shore, and the small village of San Michele – the Hotel Colomber is a good starting point, set in a green and peaceful valley between Mount Spino and Mount Pizzocolo. For something even more relaxing, walk the four-mile round trip on the paved waterfront promenade between Garda and Bardolino.

Where to stay

The southern towns of Lake Garda, found among the rolling hills and gentle shoreline, are as equally beautiful as their northern cousins.

Starting with Torri del Benaco, halfway down the eastern shore, this charming medieval village really comes to life in the evening, when you will often find live music and orchestras playing in the central piazza. Do not miss the San Fillippo Neri festival in May for the chance to try lots of local wines.

The cypress trees lining the promenade of Garda, further down the eastern shore, are instantly calming, and the passeggiata is a joy. Be sure to visit the weekly Friday market for a dazzling array of delicacies.

Bardolino is known far and wide for its wine, but the town is also a trove of independent shops and stunning sunsets. Unwind after a busy day of wine tasting or window-shopping with an evening concert on the steps of San Nicolò church.

Lazise, the last of the eastern resorts, is one of Lake Garda’s smaller but well worth a visit for some R&R – here you will find some of the lake’s very few sandy beaches. 

Peschiera is the closest to Venice, and mirrors the city with a network of canals among the fortressed old town, but with fewer crowds. A great base for independent travellers, Peschiera is one of only two resorts on Lake Garda with a railway station.

On a promontory from the southern lakeshore, Sirmione has a very special place on Lake Garda. It is home to thermal springs, the most complete of the lake’s four Scaligeri castles, and a maze of beautiful honey-coloured buildings bursting with cafés spilling on to the pavement and surrounded by pretty pebbly beaches.

In the bottom south-west corner of the lake you will find Desenzano, one of the largest and most cosmopolitan of Lake Garda’s towns. Culture abounds and, because of its great transport links, Desenzano hums with sophisticated weekenders from Milan, Venice and Verona.

Lastly, Gardone Riviera on the western shore is a collection of villages known for their luscious parks and the Heller Botanical Gardens, thanks to its sheltered, subtropical climate. Unhurried and easy-going, spend your days people-watching from the many restaurants, or visit the unusual and extravagant Il Vittoriale, a network of squares, gardens and waterways overlooking the lake.