36 Hours
36 Hours in Rio de Janeiro
When you arrive, Rio de Janeiro hits you in the face. First, the humidity engulfs you. Next, you’re struck by gorgeous vistas. Then, along the highway from the airport, the stench of sewage arrives. Rio is complicated. There is perhaps no city as dazzling, and the beachside neighborhoods from Leme to Leblon can sometimes feel like adult playgrounds. It is also saddled with dark history and a reputation for crime. But the city keeps pushing ahead. Rio just celebrated its first full Carnival without pandemic restrictions, and new restaurants and bars, many of them north of the tourist hubs of Ipanema and Copacabana, have replaced the ones that closed. Fortunately, the city’s splendor — and the irrepressible exuberance of Cariocas, those smiling Rio residents — never went anywhere.
Recommendations
- The Dois Irmãos trail, reached via a motorcycle taxi ride through a favela, is a short but steep hike to the top of the Two Brothers peaks with an incredible payoff.
- Largo da Prainha is a busy plaza that gets filled with revelers and samba music.
- Chanchada is an excellent restaurant disguised as a casual bar with streetside tables.
- Novo Oeste is a welcoming L.G.B.T.Q. bar with live music, karaoke and burgers.
- Alalaô Kiosk, a sleek beach hut, offers stiff drinks and a perfect perch for the sunset.
- Casa Porto serves hearty Brazilian dishes with a view over one of the city’s most popular plazas.
- Lilia offers a constantly changing lunch menu that focuses on fresh ingredients.
- Labuta Bar serves refined bar snacks, house-made mate and cold beer to customers at tables on the sidewalk.
- Quartinho serves some of Rio’s best cocktails in a popular, high-ceilinged bar.
- Zaza Bistrô Tropical serves excellent Brazilian cuisine with an Asian twist in a converted home.
- Xepa is a lively bar where the young crowd spills onto the street.
- Belisco is a simple wine bar that is good for small plates and conversation.
- Bar do Gomes is a historic Rio pub with cold draft beer and fried snacks.
- Armazém Senado, one of the city’s oldest bars, is still the life of the party.
- Calma attracts a young clientele with electronic music and an artsy vibe.
- Pedra do Sal, a historic site with links to the slave trade, hosts the city’s most famous free samba show.
- Ipanema Beach remains one of Brazil’s most delightful places, if the sun is out.
- CRAB doubles as a museum and a shop for unique and authentic Indigenous handicrafts.
- Metropolitan Cathedral of Rio shows off some of the city’s best Brutalist architecture.
- The Santa Teresa tram takes riders on a scenic journey to a picturesque neighborhood.
- Feira do Lavradio is a lively artisan fair in a historic neighborhood.
- Favela Hype sells colorful, unique clothes, as well as coffee and cocktails.
- Vinil do Mustafa has an eclectic collection of Brazilian vinyl records.
- Espaço 51 offers a trove of thoughtfully restored midcentury furniture for sale.
- Uber is popular, safe and cheaper than taxis, which also are fine. The metro is efficient and reliable, but its reach is limited. Walking is a great way to explore, although avoid strolling downtown and the Santa Teresa neighborhood at night.
- The Fasano Hotel has become known as the swankiest place to stay in Rio, and deservedly so. Its rooftop pool offers a gorgeous view. Doubles start around 2,500 reais, or about $480 a night.
- Chez Georges, a gorgeous boutique bed-and-breakfast in the Santa Teresa hills, features a sweeping view, chic interior design and Brutalist architecture. The seven suites start at 990 reais.
- JO&JOE Rio Largo do Boticario is a stylish new hostel with a pool. The location near the Christ the Redeemer statue is safe but will require taking Ubers to most other sights. A bunk in a shared room starts at 68 reais, while a private double room starts at 188 reais.
- There are plenty of short-term rental apartments. Ipanema and Leblon are near the beach and best for travelers, but they are pricey. The Botafogo or Flamengo neighborhoods are safe, central and cheaper.
Itinerary
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