For being one of the most-visited tourist destinations in France, Mont Saint-Michel remains a semi-mystery to non-French speakers. I first saw the island and its iconic tidal reflection on Instagram (where else) and became obsessed with visiting this supernatural UNESCO World Heritage Site. Only problem -- I couldn't quite figure out how to do it perfectly. All my friends who had been there either took organized tours or had less than helpful advice about renting a manual car and just winging it. But if you're in Paris, or road tripping through France, like I was this past fall, a stop at the vertically-constructed castle surrounded by picturesque French countryside or fantasy film-worthy reflective water, depending on the time of day, is a worthwhile detour. My fiancé and I rented an automatic car from Hertz Europe, located at Gare De Lyon on the outskirts of Paris, meaning city driving was minimal (this is a helpful tip, travelers!), and we headed out towards Normandy, where the mystical water-surrounded Mont Saint-Michel is located.
Getting there
Mont Saint-Michel is accessible by car (it's roughly a four-hour drive from Paris, though traffic can be bad) as well as chartered bus or tour. Several private companies offer fourteen hour day trips directly from Paris, but for a more budget-friendly excursion, take a train from Paris and transfer from a selection of stations to the town of Mont Saint-Michel . Tourists can't drive directly onto the Mont, but easily accessible parking costs 11.70 € for 24 hours and a free shuttle (7:30 a.m. - midnight, daily) or short walk on a footbridge brings you directly to the site.
What to see
You're primarily here to see the Mont Saint-Michel Abbey, billed as a "gravity-defying" religious refuge dating back over 1000 years. Tickets to for a self-guided tour go for 10 €, and walking through the historic vertical structure can take anywhere from under an hour to several hours, depending how closely you want to look at the architectural details and views. Beyond the Abbey, you can walk the vertical grounds of the mountain, rest or picnic in parks and shop in souvenir stores.
What to eat
Like any tourist destination this castle is defined not by face-size turkey legs (which would be nice) but larger-than-face-sized omelettes, whipped until nearly lace-like until the fluff collapses under your fork. The signature omelettes are served at La Mere Poulard, the original location of which is located at the entrance to the site. It's impossible to miss the rhythmic beating of the eggs in copper bowls as you enter the island, but if you don't care about eating in a dining room that's served famous people (Ernest Hemmingway, Marilyn Monroes and Yves Saint Laurent, to name a few), keep walking vertically up the mountain, where you'll find more casual offshoots of the same restaurant serving the omelettes and other French dishes for lower prices and with better views. Normandy is also known for its apple orchards, so be sure to order a cider (hard or kid-friendly) and perhaps a tarte tatin to take advantage of the regionally famous fruit.
What to buy
Cookies! Mont Saint-Michel isn't necessarily a souvenir hotspot, but if you want something to take home, it's all about the butter cookies, also from La Mere Poulard. Sold in souvenir tins in various sizes, as well as packages to eat on the spot, the cookies are crisp, sweet and, well, buttery. Don't regret not stocking up while you have the chance.
Where to stay
There are hotels on the island, but unless you're arriving at night and planning to tour in the morning, don't prioritize an overnight stay. In fact, ignore all the nearby hotels and drive 10-30 minutes deeper into Normandy for a much more authentic French experience. We stayed at Château de la Ballue, a centuries-old family castle converted to a bed and breakfast and garden. Should you want to split up the drive back to Paris, an overnight stay in Le Mains, Giverny or Rouen, which are more or less on the route, split up the return trip with more (convenient) sightseeing.
When to visit
High season is over the summer, and I've been told that unless you love being pushed in more directions than your body naturally moves by frantic, sweaty crowds, this is not the time to visit. Spring and fall are substantially less crowded and the weather holds up for the mostly outdoor trip. No matter what season you visit in, if you want to see the iconic reflection of the castle in the water, check the tidal schedule and plan your visit around the highest tides in Europe.
