Nestled on the border of Normandy and Brittany, like a fairy tale castle rising from the sea, stands the enchanting Mont-Saint-Michel. This timeless tidal island has beckoned travelers for centuries, luring pilgrims, history enthusiasts, and thoughtful travelers alike to its shores. As you ascend the 350 ancient steps that wind their way up to the Abbey, you’ll not only be treated to breathtaking views but also find yourself transported through time.
Mont-Saint-Michel is more than just a picturesque postcard. It’s a living testament to the resilience of human ambition and architectural ingenuity. To truly appreciate the magic of this UNESCO World Heritage site, let’s embark on a journey through time and explore the captivating history that has shaped this iconic marvel. So, whether you’re planning a visit or simply seeking to enrich your knowledge, join us as we unveil the captivating history of Mont-Saint-Michel.
Legend has it that, in the year 708, the Bishop of Avranches was visited by Archangel Michael himself. The celestial being implored the bishop to construct an oratory, a sacred chapel, atop a rugged granite outcrop jutting from the sea. However, the bishop, initially skeptical, hesitated for two full days and nights.
It wasn’t until the third night, when Archangel Michael returned, that faith overcame his doubt. As the divine messenger touched the bishop’s forehead, some say leaving an enigmatic mark, the decision was made. The very next year, the first chapel was consecrated, marking the birth of what we now know as Mont-Saint-Michel.
In Catholic theology, Saint Michael is primarily responsible for weighing human souls to determine where they should go after death and guiding the “good” souls to heaven. Pilgrims from far and wide flocked to Mont Saint Michel in the hopes Michael would give them divine favor and a place in heaven.
In 966, the Duke of Normandy dispatched a group of Benedictine monks to settle on the Mont and further develop this sacred site. They erected a larger chapel on top of the existing oratory.
The 11th century brought a pivotal moment as William the Conqueror, also Duke of Normandy, ascended the English throne, forging a historical link between England and Normandy. Yet, this union of lands across the Channel was short-lived, as in 1204, the King of France (via proxy) decided to reclaim Normandy, aided by Breton allies. The fiery turmoil of battle consumed the original monastic buildings of Mont-Saint-Michel.
The King, deeply wary of divine retribution, committed vast resources to rebuild the monastery, ensuring that Archangel Michael’s favor was retained and he would be granted a place in Heaven.
As you explore Mont-Saint-Michel today, you’ll notice the architectural mosaic reflecting centuries of construction. The Norman-style Romanesque nave and the Gothic choir, standing side by side, narrate the passage of time. The original Romanesque choir collapsed in 1421, leading to a transformation into the more elegant Gothic style of the era.
The Mont’s history isn’t a mere linear narrative but a layering of epochs, each leaving its indelible mark. The upper terrace, once the basement floor of the former nave, houses stones etched with symbols and numbers – the signatures of medieval stone cutters. These etchings were more than marks; they were how the masons proved their work to earn their wage.
Imagine the logistics of constructing this architectural marvel. Mont-Saint-Michel was originally triangular in shape. How did they keep building upwards? First, they erected crypts attached to the former chapel to make a flat surface, and then continued building the larger church on top. Materials couldn’t be sourced from the island itself, so flat-bottomed boats transported stone from the Seychelles Island, 30 kilometers away (18.6 miles). It was no small feat!
The church that greets visitors today boasts an open and airy design, with only a rope separating the congregation and choir from the nave and transepts. Yet, in the past, a wall divided the church at the nave, behind which the pilgrims prayed, creating a private enclosure for the monks where the pilgrims were not permitted. The private enclosure extended through the rest of the monastery and only noble pilgrims were allowed within.
The Benedictine monks of Mont-Saint-Michel lived lives steeped in prayer and work, which mainly involved transcribing philosophical texts, a noble pursuit in an era before the printing press. While they did not take a vow of silence, there were strict hours of silence set by the Abbott, and silence was maintained at other times as much as possible.
The exquisite cloister, a tranquil space at the summit of the complex, offered a private respite. Here, the monks found solace for reading, meditation, and even conversation—activities restricted elsewhere on the Mont. Because it’s on the upper level, it needed to be constructed with light materials. The double rows of columns disperse the weight of the wooden roof. Originally the walls would have been covered in lime and some areas painted. A small bit of paint remains.
The refectory, or dining room, was thoughtfully constructed with 59 windows to allow the monks to bask in the ‘Light of God’. The room is lined with tables where the monks took meals, with one table prominently arranged in the front center of the room. This was for the Abbott, the leader of the monastery.
The monks dined in silence, partaking in simple meals–often fish, with one monk tasked with reading from the works of the Saint of the day. Hand signals sufficed for requesting salt, bread, or more wine. Interestingly, Normandy is not a wine growing region, but because Mont Saint Michel was on the road to England, the monastery had access to fine wine. They preferred (and still do) wine from the Anjou region, specifically Saumur, where we live!
The monastery extended hospitality to both poor pilgrims and affluent nobles seeking Archangel Michael’s blessing. The latter enjoyed spacious chambers within the monks’ private enclave. These stone walls once bore vibrant paintings, and ‘hanging walls’ divided the space into rooms. Massive fireplaces warmed the chambers, while nobles brought their own furnishings, sparing the monastery the need to provide them. Two other huge fireplaces at the back of the room acted as the kitchen.
From Saint Louis to Francois I, the Kings of France also came to Mont Saint Michel for pilgrimage, political meetings, and wedding ceremonies. They stayed in this large room and prayed in the small, attached private chapel. It’s absolutely incredible to be in the same room hundreds of years later.
The monks of Mont-Saint-Michel had even considered the infirm and the departed. The crypts hosted an infirmary, a mortuary chapel, and a resting place for the monks and nobles who wished to eternally remain in the shadow of the Mont. Their bodies weren’t buried however, they were covered with lime!
At the beginning of the French Revolution, there weren’t many monks left at the monastery and those who remained took their belongings and fled, leaving the Mont abandoned. It stood empty for 3 years before the Revolutionaries had what they considered a brilliant idea: they turned it into a prison. The first “guests” were priests and Royalist nobles.
I’ve always imagined most of France was in favor of the Revolution, but in fact there was a huge resistance. Initially, Mont Saint Michel was just a prison for dissidents, but after a while it was converted to a working jail. The prisoners crafted shoes, hats, and something very important for the Navy at nearby St. Malo: sails for their ships. A massive wheel, powered by prisoners, operated a lift to deliver supplies to this ‘Norman Alcatraz,’ from ships docked below.
The prison operated for 17 years before influential figures, most notably Victor Hugo, campaigned to refurbish the Mont and classify it as a historic architectural monument. It took several years, and much convincing, but it was finally declared a historical site in 1874.
The Germans occupied Mont Saint Michel during WWII, using St. Aubert Church (a small chapel jutting out on the island) as a lookout point. The site was hugely popular among German soldiers and tourists, with around 325,000 German visitors from mid-July 1940 until the end of the occupation of France. After the landings on D-Day occurred, exhausted German troops retreated to strongholds like Mont Saint Michel. On 1 August 1944, Allied forces entered the Mont accompanied by two English reporters and crowds of joyous French locals.
The Benedictine monks returned to the monastery in 1966, but were replaced in 2001 by the Monastic Fraternities of Jerusalem. Seven nuns and four monks of the order have been living as a community at Mont Saint Michel since. They hold services four times a day and modern-day pilgrims, as well as tourists, are welcome to attend.
I think the best way to visit is to walk across the estuary sands, the way medieval pilgrims would have. Timings are dependent on the tides, and you must hire a qualified guide to do so. Takes about 3 hours.